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UNDERSTANDING THE C-SYSTEM!
"TABLE TOP CONTENTS"
AUCTION ABBREVIATIONS!! UPDATED BELOW (CLICK HERE) :
THE “C” SCALE GRADING SYSTEM!
WHAT DOES IT ALL MEAN ?:
The “C” Grading system was originally pioneered by Vega Transports in Australia way back in 1991. The “C” scale system was originally invented by a few collectors in the U.S concerning levels of Card and Packaging conditions for original Star Wars figures and Toys. The “C” which basically stands for ‘Condition’ was most importantly invented for use for Star Wars Carded Figures, describing Card, Bubble, Figure and etc conditions. The “C” Scale ranges from C-10 to C-1, C-9 to C-10 is the best top of the line packaging conditions. We introduced this system in Australia in 1991 for primary use for Original Star Wars toys. It took the market almost 2 years to pick this system up and use it in Australia. Over the last decade we (Vega Transports) have only used this system for Original Star Wars Figures, however the time has finally come to put this system into effect on all past, present and future Star Wars toys (Including POTF2 to the current Saga Series), due to the market and every collector now using this system for everything besides and as well as Star Wars merchandise, we are now re-introducing this system for your benefit on all of our Star Wars inventory. If you’re concerned about any conditions see below, or if any of our items are not listed with the “C” System, then they are automatically C-8+ to C-9. However if worried about that still then email us. We have re-introduced this system mainly for carded figures to begin with.
As you will see below the “C” for condition system, has slightly altered over the last few years (that’s if you’re already aware of this grading system). Some paranoid collectors go as far as grading not only the entire packaging these days but also the figure inside the mint bubbles! Our “C” System Below is the most up to date and accurate, which many people use as the universal Grading System. Some people have there own impressions of this system and today the “C” system is used also for the condition grading of Loose Complete toys as well.
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THE GRADING SYSTEM:
THE “C” CONDITION SCALE:
C-10:
Means: The Best of the best, the most mint perfect item ever available: in two words: Super Mint! C-10’s are very awkward to grade. This condition means that the packaging is absolutely perfect! There are no faults at all. There are no creases at all (no minor creases anywhere on the packaging at all!). If it’s a Figure, there’s no corner bends on the card. No problems at all on the card or the bubble. Absolutely Mint Perfect Condition. You may never see us ever use the term C-10. For further information (see below under: How The Term Case Fresh Is Used).
C-9:
Means: Almost Mint, almost perfect or near mint to mint. C-9’s are the most commonly used term for new items in this day and age. C-9 also means the item term case fresh
(see below under: How The Term Case Fresh Is Used).
The C-9 condition means: the item’s packaging is in new condition. The item is
in the same fresh looking condition it arrived from the manufacture in or termed
case fresh. The only sign of any minor wear is: slight edge or corner creases or
just extremely light card surface wrinkle creases. The Plus sign + is given to
this grading if the creases or wrinkle to the packaging card are extremely light
or not very noticeable. The Plus sign + is also given if the bubble of a carded
figure looks to be mint clean. Again if the item is a carded figure, the bubble
is not cracked, not damaged, has no price marks, but may have extremely light
surface card wrinkle or an extremely minor card crease. C-9 can also be termed
near mint to mint condition, in short. If you don’t see a grading on any item we
sell then you can rest knowing that it’s a C-9 unless noted. C-9- is given to
Cinema Scene 3pks which are termed case fresh but may have a slight plastic
bubble wrinkle on the top of the window, the reason why is because most were
shipped this way and some were extremely hard to pull from a case without a
minor wrinkle crease. If the item listed is a Loose Complete Toy, then it’s
clean and like new condition or only displayed not played with, in clean new
looking condition. Sometimes we are harsh on grading, so some figures may be
better to some collectors.
C-8:
Means: The item is Mint, however it has got wear. C-8 packaging has Minor more established wear. The creasing is more noticeable. Or the packaging may have a slight indent or heavy crease. If a carded figure, there maybe a slight indent to the bubble on the card. There could also be or just have more noticeable wear to the cards corner bottom edge or edges. C-8’s are still displayable but are less then perfect mint. C-8’s might have all above so called problems, or may only have one or two problems. We may have items in this category on near mint card, but have a much more noticeable problem that could be creasing on the Card, some but not many might have a perfect bubble and have a major crease, or the card might be near mint but have a bubble problem. A plus sign + is only given if the wear is minor or only has one problem which places the item in this category like a heavy crease or only a minor Bubble dent or
two or maybe just minor wrinkles. As an example a C-8+ could have just bubble
dents which are minor and the rest of the card might be looking almost perfect!
Or another example is a minor bubble dent or wrinkle with almost a perfect card.
Also some times a carded figure may have only been placed in this grading
because of either the store display hangar has some minor shelf ware (not ripped
or torn off as that's an automatic C-6 see below), or just some very minor self
ware to the packaging card. As you can see C-8's can vary in conditions. If you
are ever worried contact us before bidding or buying so you know exactly what
might be wrong with a specific item condition. C-8’s are extremely common
conditions, but do sometimes scare the collector if they are chasing an item
without figure bubble or card problems or some kind of shelf wear. Some C-8’s
might only have a minor price or surface tear which is less then half a
centimetre or up to 3mm, but if that’s the only case with the item then the item
will be listed with C-8- micro tear. If a C-8 has a tear- it is listed with a
tear. If the ‘tear’ is not listed beside a C-8 item, then rest assured there is
no tear at all on that C-8 item. If the listed item is a Loose Complete Toy,
then it’s clean but in played with or slightly worn condition.
C-7:
Means: The item packaging has moderate to heavy wear. The packaging may have extremely heavy creasing worst then C-8 or if a carded figure; it may have been folded over with wear which is very noticeable. The bubble will have severe indents or creasing. There will be a price sticker or surface tear on the card either front or back or have a rough card condition, or it could mean the item only has a price tear on the front. Tears larger then 3mm automatically become C-7 regardless of any other card condition at all. A plus sign + is only given if the tear is the only thing wrong with the product or if the bubble is the only thing wrong with the product. Tears are again listed beside the item or marked with (damaged). This condition grade is usually unacceptable for collectors who want to keep items in their personal collections for value at a later date, unless it’s a rare item. C-7: figures (which, if ever listed) marked with ‘holes on card’- means from a stappler only. No C-7 has holes unless noted C-7-.
C-6:
Means: the item packaging has extremely heavy wear and damage. Very Bad Shelf wear. Will have tears, very bad creasing, or other extremely severe damage. It is suggested that you only buy C-6 items for kids, or for buying items for a display or for your own loose complete mint collection. Collectors usually only buy these items for a guaranteed Mint Loose item. These items in C-6 are not recommended for collectors wanting boxed or carded collectibles for later value with this packaging.
Some times but not usually you can have a seemly perfect bubbled figure, but the
store display hangar at the top of the card which holds the item on a display
rank may have been seriously damaged or completely ripped away. Any carded
figure missing their display hangar regardless of any of condition is an
automatic C-6 or C-5.
C-5:
Means: The item packaging has severe damage. The item contents are still mint, but the packaging is badly damaged. Any carded figure with the C-5 grade will be missing the upc- proof of purchase or bar code. This means someone has cut the box on the back of the card off for special offers etc. Any figure or item missing the upc- proof of purchase or bar code cut from the card is automatically C-5, it does not matter if the bubble is fine or the items box is fine, but once the UPC has been cut off, the packaging has lost any real value down the line. Again these items in the C-5 grade are not recommended for collectors wanting boxed or carded collectibles for later value with its packaging.
C-4 TO C-1:
Means: These lower grades were invented for items without much packaging. The lower grades speak really for themselves. Originally this grade meant your Loose Complete toy was mint but no one really ever uses any grade lower then C-5 anymore. Originally C-4 was a Carded figure with a reattached bubble either glued or sticky tapped back on, or a carded figure with a smashed bubble. This “C” grade also use to mean a boxed toy with some packaging. C-4 down to C-1 does not really mean much anymore. People in now days usually rate the box or packaging separate to there Item inside and give a multiple grading for the item, packaging and if it came with it- the insert packaging for some toys.
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THE LOOSE COMPLETE SCALE?:
There use to be a scale in the above, where Loose Toys were graded in the C-4 to C-1 range. Since then, the grading system has changed and now Loose Complete toys, have their own “C” System which is basically a spin off “C” grade system, Where C-9/C-10 is a new Loose Complete mint item, C-9 is a new condition item which may have been displayed and may have minor sticker wear etc. The system for this goes on, with different conditions for faded or damaged toys as well as sound working or not working too, Action figures with loose joints or colour fades. You just have to remember that if you ever see or list your own items using the “C” system, the systems are different. These are ultimately separated by Mint On Card (MOC) Mint In Box (MIB) Mint In Packet (MIP) which are for all Mint items using the “C” System or just Loose Complete plus the “C” System which separates the two. When the “C” System is used, it is ultimately separated by the Mint Boxed or Loose Complete categories.
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THE GRADING SYSTEM:
HOW THE TERM CASE FRESH OR
FACTORY FRESH IS USED:
Whilst some Reputable companies and dealers describe the term case fresh Figures as C-10 (the top of the line mints’ of the mint, absolutely perfect no problems at all), the term can no longer apply as C-10. The term, case fresh
or Factory Fresh where ever you see it listed anywhere only guarantees you a C-9 or C-9+ Figure, toy or item. The reason why? Is that in this day and age the products are not shipped the way they use to be. Most (termed) case fresh
or Factory Fresh figures do have and sometimes arrive with extremely minor or light surface creases somewhere on the packaging or the corners, which would be classed straight away as C-9 or C-9+. Again the term case fresh only guarantees you C-9. Sometimes you will be extremely lucky with a C-10. We don’t like using C-10 much these days because everybody has there own impression of what C-10 is and is meant to be, plus besides that someone will always get picky or find something that classes a product back to C-9+. So please beware of what the term case fresh
and Factory Fresh is, before buying it as C-10. We would like to say all figures termed case
or Factory fresh are C-10, but they’re not always, so keep it in mind before buying. C-10’s are extremely rare and we are usually harsh on grading products in this category, this is why the term case fresh to us is classed straight away as C-9 or C-9+. Although some items too many people could be classed as C-10, we don’t like using C-10, even if the items do appear absolutely perfect, C-10’s could have a fault somewhere or if a product is shipped to you and a light crease appears from the mail delivery then the item is straight away C-9. You may never see us use C-10. But we do use the term Case Fresh, Remember these are C-9 to C-9+. If you’re after the best so called case fresh items then buy C-9+ items, this way you will be getting a high grade item which should please you even more.
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THE GRADING SYSTEM:
ORIGINAL FIGURE PROBLEMS EXPLAINED:
The original problem with C-10 came in 1995 with Original 1977 to POTF1 in 1984-‘85 Star Wars figures. Original Star Wars figures came un-punched. Un-punched means the store hangers on the figures Card at the middle top were still in place and not punched out for shelve or store display. An original carded figure could be mint perfect but the store hanger could be punched out, which automatically graded the figure straight away to C-9+. You could never sell an original Star Wars figure at C-10 without un-punched hangers. In 1995 Dealers and Collectors started selling C-10 with punched store hangers because, the newest Star Wars series POTF2 had just begun and no carded action figures from that time onwards ever shipped with an un-punched store hanger in place ever again. Hasbro and other companies from that time forward (all the way up to today’s present) pre-punch the store hangers before even assembling carded figures into case assortments. As far as we are concerned even today, Original carded 1977 to 1985 Star Wars carded figures must have an un-punched hanger in place before even considering a C-10 status, other dealers seem to think otherwise but this is what was originally invented using the “C” system- so they can get over it! Please note the un-punched status only applies to the Original Star Wars series as above. Today’s figures are again all manufactured with pre-punched store hangers and can reach if lucky enough C-10 status. Other original early ‘80’s Star Wars Problems included yellowing or tinted bubbles. The Bubbles were yellow or a light grey-blue tint colour. Back then C-9 was again automatic. In late 1993 it was discovered that many product figure run bubbles were actually produced in this colour in 1983-’84 as the figures were rushed into stores for the latest releases. The yellowing of the bubbles occurred due to the unstable clear plastic being subject to humidity in some foreign countries where the products were manufactured, this happened in places such as Hong Kong, Mexico and Argentina. Yellowing also occurred due product control. So by 1995 the tinted or yellow bubble carded figure could for the first time reach a C-10 status under a cloud of many not wanting to believe the change in grade was possible, some like us still worry about the change made, but it has become more accepted since Episode One in 1999. [GO TO TABLE TOP]
OTHER EXPRESSIONS AND BASIC TERMINOLOGY:
USED WITH THE “C” GRADE SYSTEM:
Basic condition expressions which have been around since 1987 have been used for collector listings ever since, these are primarily used for any listings anywhere today. The following expressions were the forerunners to the Original and today’s “C” grading System. These basic terms are used by most of the population today, but some people still don’t understand what they mean? Each of these terms should be used along with the “C” grading system so the conditions make much more sense- where possible. They are very easy to understand as follows:
MOC:
Means: Mint on Card or Carded, The figure is Mint still sealed on its original bubble and on its original card, never opened, Mint!
MIB (or) MISB:
Means: Mint In Box and or Mint In Sealed Box. The item is sealed new and has never been opened. Note some U.S dealers are trying to confuse people with NMIB with some of their Mint In box listings so make sure if dealing with them you know what the heck they are listing their items as, MIB does sound like it’s supposed to be sealed? Doesn’t
it! NMIB is not sealed see below.
MIP (or) MISP:
Means: Mint In Package and or Mint In Sealed Package. The item is sealed new and has never been opened or removed from the items original package. These could also refer to items which were only bagged and not put in proper cardboard packaging, nevertheless these items in this grade are how the manufacture originally released these items and they are Mint.
NMIB:
Means: Near Mint In box. The toy is C-9/10 with complete interior packaging. The Condition of the item is stated in the listing with either the stickers applied or unapplied to the toy or item. Some MIB items receive this classification only because they have been opened for customs or parcel inspection and it does depend on the item condition, the box is not sealed. Content is Mint to Near Mint. Note Some U.S dealers are trying to sell this category as MIB, be warned! Depending on the item, the prices are not much different to Mint In Box, again it depends on the item condition and how rare the item is. Some people past this condition as standard Mint In box, however it is Near Mint In box.
NIB (or) Nice boxed
Means: Items in this grade are just below NMIB and the box has been opened. Products used under this grade refer to the toy being:
Nice In BoxThe toy is C-9 complete with some interior packaging. The Condition of the item is stated in the listing with the stickers applied. The toy may have been displayed but not played with. The toy has been placed back inside its original box or packaging. Items in this grade may or may not have all original packaging inside. This refers to booklets, instructions and maybe the wire wrap-ins which held the toy together inside the box. Some may not have all original interior cardboard inserts, but should have some packaging at least.
Some People Have started confusing buyers with NIB or New In Box, if this is the
case then you must ask the seller if it's MIB (see above!).
AVEG (or) WBOX (or) With Box (or) Loose With Box:
Means: The Toy comes complete in close to near Mint C-8+/C-9 condition unless stated inside a title or description. The Toy is complete, but the box has been opened. There is wear to the box. There is no interior packaging or any cardboard packaging at all. There is no booklets and no instructions inside. Some of the item’s boxes in this section grade maybe a little bit rough. Collectors usually go after these items before a Loose Complete toy or item, as the box refers to the toy, plus the boxes are much easier to store for later reference.
LOOSE COMPLETE:
Means: These items usually speak for themselves. Toys or items in the Loose Complete category start with their own “C” System terminology. If the “C” system is not applied to these items, then the items are usually automatically graded at C-8+ to C-9+. Some items may have been used but are usually clean. All Items listed under Loose Complete come with all accessories the toy or item had when originally released. These items are extremely popular, especially with parents and kids who can not afford the more expensive items when first brand new released. Collectors who don’t have a lot of space usually buy these over Mint In Box items and are more then happy with having them.
LOOSE:
Means: unless stated otherwise? Loose items are not-complete unless noted inside a title or description. These items could have parts or pieces missing from them. These items are usually listed with what is missing, or are listed with a picture in ‘Loose or As Is Condition’, this means the seller does not know if the original item is complete or it may be missing something, or a condition maybe slightly lower then average. With some products from other galaxies besides Star Wars, if we don’t know that a product is 100% complete then we may sell the item ‘As Is’. These items are becoming much more popular world wide these days, as collectors try to complete their original toys. E.G; Shells from Playsets to parts on a Millennium Falcon, to the smallest parts in a Droid Factory Playset or even Snowspeeder pieces etc can be found in this grade. Collectors are more and more looking at these and prices are beginning to climb on popular parts E.G; At-At Walker Chin Gun Cannons etc.
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Some times you may find some
abbreviations or terms used inside an auction title or listing which may
confused the hell out of you, or turn you away when you see some type of jargon
which looks or feels strange whilst reading it or them, also sometimes these can
be over looked straight away as possible typing errors. Some sellers do not seem
to explain some of these sometimes important terms so we have decided to add
some of these often over looked terms to this section. The Term: "NRFB"
or "MNRFB" Means:
Never Removed From Box and Mint Never Removed From Box (see MIB or MISB above!). The
Term: "NR"
Means: No Reserve Auction. The Term "VF"
Means: Very Fine Condition and "MVF"
actually is Mint In Very Fine Condition. "MIMB"
or "MIMSB"
both Mean: Mint In Mint Box and Mint In Mint Sealed Box (see MIB and MISB
above!). "VHTF"
or "VH"
: Means Very Hard To Find! "HTF"
: Means Hard To Find! "MOSC"
: Means Mint On Sealed Card (see MOC above). "MOMC" : Means Mint On Mint Card
(see MOC above). "BIN"
or "BN"
: Means the item(s) are a Buy It Now Sale. There is always at some point a combination of these used together
which can easily confuse the buyer much more. Usually at auction we try to keep
the abbreviations to a minimum so we are not overly confusing the buyer,
remember most of this terminology is collector related, however if the normal joe-blow like most of us out there do not understand, then the
terminology is useless and should
never be used. Always if in doubt about a term ask what it means! Because most
of the time it is something simple which has been over looked. Some of these
terms do become important to buyers who do not understand what they are reading,
so we have listed some of these examples here as a guide for you.
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BASIC STAR WARS TERMINOLOGY:
WHAT DOES POTF2 TO POTJ ALL MEAN?
If you are new to collecting Star Wars related merchandise, you may or may not be aware of the simply terminology used for any short-hand listing code. The codes are pretty basic and understandable, however some parents or kids may not know the simply codes used in the majority of most of our listings. The below codes will show you what the terminology is used for what category or for what series.
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ROTS, EP3 Series
Star Wars Episode Three: Revenge Of The Sith Toy Series 2005.
OTC and VOTC Series
Star Wars Original Trilogy Collection and Vintage
Trilogy Collection 2004.
Saga Series
Star Wars Toy Series 2002-2004.
CWS, CW, SWCW, Clone War, SW TCW, TCWS
Star Wars CLONE WARS.
AOTC, EP2, Episode 2, SW EP2
Star Wars Episode Two: Attack Of The Clones.
POTJ, SW POTJ
Star Wars Power Of The Jedi Series: 2000-2002.
TPM, PM, SW TPM, EP1, Episode 1, SW EP1
Star Wars Episode One: The Phantom Menace Series: 1999.
Shadows, SOTE, SW SOTE
Star Wars Shadows Of the Empire Series: 1996.
POTF2, SW POTF2
Star Wars Power Of The Force 2 Series: 1995-1999.
SW Original, Vintage, Classic
Original Star Wars Toy Series: 1977-1985.
SW: TPM
Star Wars: Episode 1: The Phantom Menace.
SW: AOTC
Star Wars: Episode 2: Attack Of The Clones.
SW: ROTS
Star Wars: Episode 3: Revenge Of The
Sith.
SW ANH EP4
Star Wars: Episode 4: A New Hope.
SW ESB EP5
Star Wars: Episode 5: The Empire Strikes Back.
SW ROTJ EP6
Star Wars: Episode 6: Return Of The Jedi.
WHAT
DOES .00 or .01 MEAN IN A LISTING?
If you are new to collecting Star Wars or have ever wondered what collectors or
dealers mean when we list an item with .00 or a .01, then this will finally
explain what it all means and why it is important sometimes to list this with
collectors tracking a rare figure! When Hasbro took over Kenner in late 1994 and
released the 1st of the then Power Of The Force Series 2 (POTF2) at the time, a
special pin number was discovered on the back of Action Figure packaging and
most of the complete toy line, including Vehicles etc. For example the pin
number for a carded action figure is located on the Card Back at the bottom of
the card and usually in small writing, the pin number is followed by a .00 to
possibly a .05 etc. To a Collector searching for hard to find variations, a .00
or .01 is vital when listed. A .00 or .0000 found on a card back is the 1st
released item for that product in that series. When the product is either
changed in same way or re-issued for another production run a .01, .02 or even
.0100 etc are found on the packaging backs. Collectors some times go nuts over
these, especially when variations are only found in a particular .00 or .01
release. However the main reason collectors chase a .00 is due mainly to the
fact that again a .00 was the first release for that product and these days
regardless of any variations most collectors want the 1st release products or
.00's above variations. We usually only list these Collector Versions when
listing Auctions, as the terminology does confuse the hell out of most parents
who could care less of what this all means. If you're only interested in buying
in Collector Versions, then email us before you buy, because we will only ship
what we have unless a variation is requested. To Parents, buyers or kids out
there worried about this terminology, this is mainly a collecting variation
term, do not worry as the products are all the same basically. This terminology
also springs up from the warning on just about any toy you buy today; where it
says on the packaging, "colours or packaging may vary". However to Collectors
this is important. The Star Wars toys with these .00 and etc variations were
only available on packaging between 1995 and 2001. No Saga Series or other
products are currently shipping with these .00 system pins on the packaging, so
a n/a is listed at auction. Please remember if these .00's etc are not listed
beside any item or products we sell, then you will be getting the only available
product we have on offer, which could be any number or version .00 etc, unless
noted.
We hope this has helped you with basic understanding and listing terminology. If you have any questions email us.
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